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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 9:15 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:42 am
Posts: 564
Location: United States
First name: Stephen
Last Name: Ziegenfuss
City: Jackson
State: MI
Zip/Postal Code: 49203
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I was doing this last night, so I figured I would snap some pictures and throw 'em up in case they help somebody....

This is how I apply a color fade to my electric tops...I suppose it would work fine for acoustics - but might be a little thick.

1. I use a Preval sprayer with two part catalyzed urethane. TransTints work well with the finish. I always spray with a heavy mask, and have acetone on hand for clean up.

2. The guitar should be properly taped off. In this case I am going to do a PRS style faux binding, and have it taped off with a TESA high performance automotive pin striping tape - made to not break down with the solvents in the urethane.

3. I mix a little dye (8-10 drops per ounce) with the finish, and lightly dress the whole surface. I repeat after the first coat flashes if I want a darker base to work work with. Ensure that this coat moves towards the middle as much as you desire, because we will not want to hit it again with darker finish.

4. I mix in 8-10 more drops and hit just the edge, on top of the edge tape to ensure I get a nice dark deposit there to offset the binding line. Then I use the same concentration (after that coat flashes) and "burst" the top, using a spray angle almost parallel to the surface of the guitar. It "rolls" the edge if you will. Ensure that this coat moves towards the middle as much as you desire, because we will not want to hit it again with darker finish.

5. If needed, I will add just a little more dye, and continuing the fade towards the edge.

6. When the whole surface flashes (in standard 65-70 deg spraying conditions) in about 15 - 10 minutes, remove your masking tape - particularly if your finish is thick at the edge - which it will probably be until you figure at the concentration ratios between the finish and the dye...This will ensure the finish seperates from the tape in a tearing fashion, and does not lift from the guitar where it should be. Any slight irregularities can be addressed later with a razor blade after the finish sets.

7. As a final note, I always tend to spray the fades a little darker then i want them to be because I do take off a certain amount of finish to level these coats for the couple clear top coats that will be applied over top.

Hope this helps,
Stephen


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 9:25 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3267
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
You sand your color coats? I never do that as there is no way to keep it even. I spray clear coats on top of the unsanded color coats until I have sufficient thickness to prevent sand throughs.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:18 am 
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Location: Winfield, IL.
Stephen,

I still am amazed that you get the results you do with the Preval sprayers. I've used them for a lot of stuff but never thought of doing a whole guitar with one. Is the reason for your choice of this spray method the ease of cleaning the equipment, i.e. the garbage can?

Steve


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:49 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:42 am
Posts: 564
Location: United States
First name: Stephen
Last Name: Ziegenfuss
City: Jackson
State: MI
Zip/Postal Code: 49203
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Barry,

I only sand if necessary, generally, I use OOO steel wool to both dress the orange peel, and reinforce the fade - if I am not particularly happy in some areas. But generally, I try to touch it as little and as lightly as possible.

Steven,
I use the Preval system right now because of its ease of use. I used to spray with gun, but then had to spray at work because I had no compressor at home. Then, as an early finisher often does, when I would have a sand through, I found myself spending considerable amount of time getting things out to tough up one area - lets say the back. With the Preval system, I can mix up just enough finish for the job, and then shoot me acetone through the power unit to clean it, and put it away for next time. Easy, fast, descent, and inexpensive (when you order them from the right places - Monstronix.com)...I know that rattle can finishes can carry with them some stigma of inferiority, but just like all things, you can get great results when you learn how to use them - they just present a smaller learning curve than a full system.

Stephen

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 1:13 pm 
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Location: Winfield, IL.
The nice thing about the Preval sprayers is that you have complete control of the media you are using. For me that seperates them completely from the rattlers and any stigma involved. I wear a glove when using them, those little cans can get cold! I'm going to give that cat urethane a shot on my next guitar.
Enough about equipment and back to our regularly scheduled thread.

Nice technique on the burst /faux binding. I haven't tried it yet as I'm just getting fair at clear. I'll definatly be book marking this thread for reference.


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